SecurityIng Canister Dive Light Review: 3000 Lumens, Bring Batteries

A separated canister and head with a 12 degree beam, at a fraction of technical light prices, and no cells in the box.

Specifications

Specifications above come from SecurityIng's published specifications. Treat pricing as approximate, since Amazon pricing moves.

What it does well

• A canister layout puts the weight on your waist and leaves you holding a small head, which is far less tiring than a large handheld light on a long dive.
• A 12 degree beam is a genuine narrow beam, which is what makes light signalling possible and what cuts through particulate rather than lighting it up.
• A magnetic switch has no shaft through the housing, which removes a flooding path that mechanical switches have.
• Five modes including a 500 lumen setting mean you are not blinding your buddy or wasting runtime when you only need to read a gauge.
• One hundred and fifty metres of depth rating and a hard anodised aluminium body is far more than recreational diving asks of a light.

Where it falls short

• The cells are not included, and they must be raised-top rechargeable lithium cells. Flat-top cells will not make contact, which is stated in the listing and is still the most common complaint about lights of this type.
• Lithium cell quality varies enormously and counterfeit cells are common. A light is only as reliable as the cells in it, and a cheap cell in a sealed canister is a poor combination.
• Two point two hours at full output is not a long dive. Plan your mode selection rather than assuming maximum brightness all dive.
• A canister on a waist strap and a cable to your hand is another thing to route and another snag point. It suits divers who have thought about their configuration.
• A narrow beam primary light is technical diving equipment. Using it for light signalling and using it in an overhead environment both require training, and no light qualifies you for either.

What owners report

Owner reports on budget canister lights follow a pattern: the hardware is generally better than the price suggests, and the failures are about batteries. Divers who bought quality raised-top cells report them working well; divers who used whatever they had describe intermittent contact and short runtimes.

The more useful question is whether you need a primary light at all. Our primary versus backup dive light comparison covers it: a primary is for night diving, wrecks and low visibility, and every diver carrying a primary should also carry a backup, because a light failure in an overhead environment is a different problem from a light failure on a reef.

Carry a backup regardless. A small twist-switch light clipped to a D-ring costs a fraction of a primary and is the difference between an aborted dive and an incident. Nothing on this page replaces training. Dive equipment is only as safe as the diver using it, and every item here assumes you hold a current certification appropriate to the diving you are doing.

Who it suits

• Night divers and wreck divers who want a proper primary light.
• Divers moving toward technical diving who want a canister configuration.
• Anyone tired of holding a large handheld light through a full dive.

Who should skip it

• Casual reef divers, for whom a compact handheld light is simpler and sufficient.
• Anyone unwilling to source quality raised-top lithium cells.
• Divers who have not been trained in light signalling or overhead environments.

Alternatives worth considering

Keep reading

• Primary vs backup dive light
• Dive knife vs line cutter
• Technical diving explained
• Dive gear buying order
• OrcaTorch D580 backup light review
• Best dive lights

This review draws on published specifications, manufacturer figures and the consensus of verified owner reviews. We have not tested this product ourselves, and we say so rather than implying otherwise. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.